This is a quick manual how to install the ModyPoly in an Korg Poly-61M. The existing midi sockets are used, so no new holes have to be drilled. Incomming midi messages are passed to both the original midi implementation and the ModyPoly. Outgoing midi messages will be from ModyPoly only.
The files include front panel mechanical drawings and print data, schematics and PCB layout, the mechanical stencil design and manuals.
If you use or modify this, please be so kind and leave a comment below. We also like pictures and videos 🙂
You can download the files as .ZIP here: Tubbutec Polysex design files.
Files are licensed under the CERN OHL v. 1.2.
Juno-66 firmware version 1.24 is released. Apart from the seven built in scales, is now possible to upload a four custom scales using a program like Scala. Of course micro tuning is supported and you can have any number of notes per octave. Have a look at the user manual (chapter 10) for details.
In case you missed previous firmware updates, here are a few of the new features since the initial 1.00 release:
- New school chord memory modes
- Optional auto portamento in MONO B mode
- Three voice mode
- Looping mode, delay and polarity for ADSR
More infos about the Juno-66 upgrade on the Juno-66 product page.
The Roland SH-101 while an awesome sounding synthesizer, unfortunately suffers from digital noise on its output. The main source of this noise is the current flowing through its DAC combined with bad grounding. The Tubbutec SH-1oh1 mod reduces the noise floor below that of the original (amongst a lot of other features), but noise is sometimes still an issue especially with bass sounds.
This is the instruction of an easy to perform – and reversible – modification that reduces the noise substantially, by about 10dB.
Michael Kukat did an amazing job servicing a Juno-6 and installing the Juno-66 mod. With the flawless soldering and carefully placed components the pictures get an aesthetic touch. These are worth a look at – even if you don’t plan to install the Juno-66.
More pictures after the break;
These are some CV injection points of the Poly-61. You need to connect the CV with an additional resistor. Try 100k.Decrease the value for a stronger effect and increase it for a weaker influence.
If you connect one side of the potentiometer to +15V and the other one to -15 you can adjust the value up and down with the center position as default. In this case use the following resistor values:
Res: 330kAttack: 330k
MG speed: 220k
These give you about the same range as the original controls.
In case you are using the CV outtputs of the ModyPoly, connect a 100nF capacitor across the negative input and the output of the opamp to filter out high frequencies.
This is not tested but I am pretty sure it is working.
[edit: Cutoff, resonance, attack and decay work very well. Very complicated to add control to the other parameters]
A lot of Polysix’s I worked with had worn or even broken push buttons. As the Modysix mod makes use of five Polysix buttons (POLY, UNI, CHORD, HOLD, ARP), the workflow will also be dependent on the quality of these. If your buttons are sticky or very hard to push, I recommend replacing them.
This is how to do it:
Take off the panels with the buttons KLM-371. You need to remove the arp knob, and the brass screws on the back.
Desolder the four pins of the button and the two led pins. You can now take out the button. Sometimes it helps to wiggle it a bit until it comes lose.
Replace the button with a replacement, it should fit perfectly. You can now solder button and led back in.
Beautiful video showing a Polysix with Tubbutec Polysex and Kiwitechnics Kiwisix mod.
Each voice taking awhile to come into tune and every voice just a little different from each other. You can get lost for days just getting creating sounds and arpeggiating them.