Attached is a picture (extracted from the service manual) of the circuitboard and the points/parts you have to desolder to add single outputs. The HighHats and Cymbal share the same output, so you will get 7 single outputs for Bassdrum, Snaredrum, Claves, High Conga, Low Conga, Bongo and Highat/Cymbal.
This is a quick manual how to install the ModyPoly in an Korg Poly-61M. The existing midi sockets are used, so no new holes have to be drilled. Incomming midi messages are passed to both the original midi implementation and the ModyPoly. Outgoing midi messages will be from ModyPoly only.
Juno-66 firmware version 1.24 is released. Apart from the seven built in scales, is now possible to upload a four custom scales using a program like Scala. Of course micro tuning is supported and you can have any number of notes per octave. Have a look at the user manual (chapter 10) for details.
In case you missed previous firmware updates, here are a few of the new features since the initial 1.00 release:
The Roland SH-101 while an awesome sounding synthesizer, unfortunately suffers from digital noise on its output. The main source of this noise is the current flowing through its DAC combined with bad grounding. The Tubbutec SH-1oh1 mod reduces the noise floor below that of the original (amongst a lot of other features), but noise is sometimes still an issue especially with bass sounds.
This is the instruction of an easy to perform – and reversible – modification that reduces the noise substantially, by about 10dB.
Michael Kukat did an amazing job servicing a Juno-6 and installing the Juno-66 mod. With the flawless soldering and carefully placed components the pictures get an aesthetic touch. These are worth a look at – even if you don’t plan to install the Juno-66.
More pictures after the break;
A lot of Polysix’s I worked with had worn or even broken push buttons. As the Modysix mod makes use of five Polysix buttons (POLY, UNI, CHORD, HOLD, ARP), the workflow will also be dependent on the quality of these. If your buttons are sticky or very hard to push, I recommend replacing them.
This is how to do it:
Take off the panels with the buttons KLM-371. You need to remove the arp knob, and the brass screws on the back.
Desolder the four pins of the button and the two led pins. You can now take out the button. Sometimes it helps to wiggle it a bit until it comes lose.
Replace the button with a replacement, it should fit perfectly. You can now solder button and led back in.